Bâlehoo

Snow is falling in Basel. And when that happens, I find that the best thing to do is cozy up to a steaming bowl of hot chocolate.  Not too sweet. NO marshmallows, thank you very much (tho my little man, Oliver, begs to differ). While I usually make my own, using my bulk-bought Vahlrona cocoa I bought in Paris at G. Detou, a fabulous baking supply store, I am always in search of great cocoa-makers.

So imagine my molten-chocolate glee, the first time I tried the heisse schoki (hot chocolate) at Cafe zum Roten Engel, a charming little cafe tucked away in an equally charming little square called Andreasplatz, about two blocks from the Marktplatz in Basel.

Not only does the cafe make a great, creamy and foamy schoki (4.90 CHF for a large bowl) that will warm the (non) alpine chill right off your bones, the place also has gobs of Euro atmosphere. Featuring small marble-topped tables packed tightly together, a simple menu scrawled on the chalkboard behind a rustic wooden counter, it can make you feel like a local from the moment you step foot inside.
In warm months, stop by and sit outside by the fountain for tasty fresh-squeezed orangesaft (orange juice) and people-watching on the ‘platz’.

Café zum Roten Engel

+41 61 261 20 07,

Andreasplatz 15, near Marktplatz

Oh, don’t you ever get tired of cheese, you might ask? Well, no. And especially not in the peak of Fondue Season. (Basel’s recent snowy mix kicked things off with a bang)

However, since for many the economy is still melting faster than a glob of Gouda caught in a forest fire , it is good to know that you don’t have to shell out some serious Swiss CH(F)eeses to get the goods.

Here, from me to you is my absolutely favorite, award-winning (well not really but it SHOULD be) recession-proof, belly busting Cheese Fondue Recipe (adapted from a Tyler Florence recipe - he was on the right track, but sissied out on the garlic, kirsch and cheese quantities). Remember, when it comes to cheese fondue, more is, indeed, more.

Balehoo’s Fondue Fanstastic Recipe
1/2 pound Emmentaler cheese, shredded
1    pound Gruyere cheese, shredded (Check MIGROS - they often have sales on their prepackaged Gruyere and it is quite good)
2    tablespoons cornstarch
3    garlic cloves, peeled (for the garlic fearing…or those with important morning meetings… start with 1 clove and add to taste)
1    cup dry white wine
1-2 tablespoons lemon juice (I like mine lemony, but adjust according to your taste)
3    tablespoon cherry brandy, such as kirsch (again, those with morning meetings and/or cirrhosis of the liver should start with 1 tablespoon, but don’t be too shy….this combines with the garlic to give this fondue its 1-2 punch.
3/4 teaspoon dry mustard
Pinch nutmeg

Crusty bread (white, brown or both) cut into bite-size cubes
Firm veggies, such as broccoli, cauliflower, and carrots, cleaned, blanched and cut into bite-sized pieces
1 packet Alka Seltzer (optional, for those in need of a post-fondue pancreas cleanser)

Directions: In a small bowl, coat the cheeses with cornstarch and set aside. Rub the inside of the ceramic fondue pot with one of the garlic gloves then set aside. If you are not able to put your fondue pot on the stove, use a regular metal pot and rub the inside of both the metal pot and your fondue pot (for transfer later).

Over medium heat, add the wine and lemon juice to your fondue or metal pot and bring to a gentle simmer. Gradually stir the cheese into the simmering liquid, stirring until smooth before adding more. Once smooth,  stir in the garlic cloves, most of the kirsch, dry mustard and nutmeg. Continue stirring the melted mixture over heat for a few minutes to let the flavors start to meld.

Next, if you’ve been using a metal pot, light the bunsen burner (or use a votive candle ) under your fondue pot to warm it for a few moments and transfer the fondue into your fondue pot.

Serve with chunks of breads and cut-up vegetables using wooden skewers or fondue forks to dip into the cheesy goodness!  Note that I recommend leaving the garlic cloves in the mix for extra kick, but if you fear a close encounter of the garlic kind, you can remove them before serving.

The Basel Christmas market is open at the Barfusserplatz until 23 December. In the past, I have been a bit cynical about the market. Sure it is cute - atmospheric even - but I struggled to find anything I really wanted to buy amidst the “traditional” mass-produced stollen, prefab ornaments and cheesy stuffed animals.
In my mind, a good market offers inspired local fare - and this year I managed to sniff out several artisan booths. If that’s your cup of tea as well, I recommend the following:

Start: The Basel Christmas market is a maze. So, if you’re coming from the Bafusserplatz, skip the booths closest to the tram line and head toward the back, walking up the steps to the right of the Historisches Museum.

Glass Huettli Riehen - If you can make it past the wood-fire-roasted pizza stand, you will soon come upon Glass Huettli Riehen, on your right. Here you not only purchase gorgeous modern-style ornaments, candle holders, wine glasses and more from Peter Keil, one of the region’s best known glass artisans (his ornaments are featured at Globus), you can also watch his genius at work. He is there doing demonstrations daily.

Werkstatt Gilgamesch - Once you’ve gotten an eye (and a sack) full of Peter’s work, continue down the path until it forks. Turn slightly to your right and you will come upon Werkstatt Gilgamesch.  There you will find beautiful modern woodwork and felting, made by former or substituion-treated (eg methodone) drug addicts, who are in the Gilgamesch’s work training program. The results will amaze you and if you’re anything like me, knowning that your money is goingg to support a good cause makes it even easier to buy up everything in sight. I managed to resist the stunningly simple cheese boards, fruit trays, fun wooden memory games and whimsical felted “stones” but only after I fell (hard) for the asymetrical beauty of this modern vase, a candle tray and a felted votive candle.

Atelier Fuer Wiederverwertung - My already weakened defenses collapsed completely when I continued to up the path (to the left staying closest to the back of the museum building) and fell into the booth of Fredi & Annemarie Bruederlin. This delightful couple from Wangen bei Duebendorf create magical garden creatures, eye-pleasing candle holders and ear-tickling wind chimes out of old silverware (he welds, she designs)! Who knew a fork could hold such light? Or that a spoon could transform into an adorable garden frog? I loaded up my already bulging sack with several goodies and I am already sure I will lose some sleep over a very special crystal suncatcher that I left behind.

Once you’ve torn yourself away from their enchanted land (go in evening when the candles in their little makeshift “garden” are lit), continue around the back of the museum. There, you can restore your strength with a kartofellpuffer.

Blindenheim - With renewed energy, make a left out of the kartofellpuffer stand and walk down the street. First stop is the Blindenheim Basel booth. There, you can buy a handmade kitchen brush or exquisitely woven basket (one woman was overheard saying “I buy all my brushes from them every year- they are great quality”) made by, and benefiting the blind community in Basel.

Chlausehueuesli - From there, move on to Chlausehueuesli which sells stunning blown glass ornaments representing Basel and other Swiss images. The Spalentor ornament is particularly pretty, but there is something for everyone. Choose from a cute green tram car, an adorable Baselisk, the wooden Rhine boat, an elegant glittery black Basel “horn” and several different Fasnacht characters and drums. Within just a few minutes you can find a Basel Christmas ornament for everyone on your list. (Also, don’t miss the Swiss canton shield ornaments - collect ‘em all for your very own Swissmas tree!)

Touch Wood - Your arms and feet are aching and the siren song of gluewein is calling. But don’t stop until you check out Touch Wood. From Kleinlützel, the artist Gerhard Meier is not only a super fox, he’s also extremely talented, creating beautiful wooden candle holders, bread boards, salt and pepper shakers and more. These stunningly simple items highlight the beauty of the wood at prices that don’t highlight the emptines of your wallet. 

Whew. That’s enough shopping for one day. And I didn’t even mention the scarves, the wooden toys, and the handmade jewelry made with stones from the banks of the Rhine (find that one at the bottom of the steps directly in front of the museum entrance).  Now its time for some fondue. And the good news? It’s just a few steps away.

Almost exactly one year ago, I was in Provence hunting for truffles.

It was a week of “favorites”: I was staying at my favorite Provence B&B, Villa Velleron, and my favorite girl was joining me for her first-ever trip to the south of France.  And we were about to partake of one of our favorite activities: eating truffles.

I was the ‘advance’ team, arriving in Provence about a week before Tammy. Plus, I’d spent a couple of months in France a few years before, so in theory (I stress “theory”) my French was better.

Butchered languages aside, a quick internet search revealed Truffes Ventoux. This truffle farm is only about 10 minutes by car from my location in Velleron and they offer seasonal Truffle Hunting & Tasting tours from November 1 - December 15, and January 1- March 31. The cost in 2008 was 65 Euro per person.

The 1.5 hour tour includes a short overview of how truffles are grown and then a tromp into the truffle fields (wear boots!) with two very excited (and slightly aggressive) dogs. One of the dogs was in training when we were there, and owners Eric and Franck Jaumard explained the training process, which starts with being fed truffles from the time they are a pup - lucky dogs!

During our tour through the highly manicured “truffle field” (I had romantic visions of traipsing through the forest in search of random truffles - this is NOT the case), the dogs found many a lump of black gold - and almost ate a few, too (see “in training”). We also learned interesting facts about the history of truffles and about their ideal growing conditions. We were then invited inside the weighing room for an explanation of how truffles are weighed and a discussion about quality, pricing and value. (You can also purchase truffles here at the shop.)

Finally, it was over to the farmhouse for an amazing multi-course truffle lunch in front of a roaring fire. With light and tasty wine (included in price) flowing freely, we enjoyed canapés of fresh-sliced truffle and cheese on baguette rounds and a refreshing salad of frisee with fresh truffles. And you haven’t lived until you’ve eaten the deceptively simple and decadent brouillade aux truffes (scrambled eggs with truffles). Dessert was - wait for it - truffle-laced creme brulée. Yup.