Truffle Hunter
Sunday, November 8th, 2009
Almost exactly one year ago, I was in Provence hunting for truffles.
It was a week of “favorites”: I was staying at my favorite Provence B&B, Villa Velleron, and my favorite girl was joining me for her first-ever trip to the south of France. And we were about to partake of one of our favorite activities: eating truffles.
I was the ‘advance’ team, arriving in Provence about a week before Tammy. Plus, I’d spent a couple of months in France a few years before, so in theory (I stress “theory”) my French was better.
Butchered languages aside, a quick internet search revealed Truffes Ventoux. This truffle farm is only about 10 minutes by car from my location in Velleron and they offer seasonal Truffle Hunting & Tasting tours from November 1 - December 15, and January 1- March 31. The cost in 2008 was 65 Euro per person.
The 1.5 hour tour includes a short overview of how truffles are grown and then a tromp into the truffle fields (wear boots!) with two very excited (and slightly aggressive) dogs. One of the dogs was in training when we were there, and owners Eric and Franck Jaumard explained the training process, which starts with being fed truffles from the time they are a pup - lucky dogs!
During our tour through the highly manicured “truffle field” (I had romantic visions of traipsing through the forest in search of random truffles - this is NOT the case), the dogs found many a lump of black gold - and almost ate a few, too (see “in training”). We also learned interesting facts about the history of truffles and about their ideal growing conditions. We were then invited inside the weighing room for an explanation of how truffles are weighed and a discussion about quality, pricing and value. (You can also purchase truffles here at the shop.)
Finally, it was over to the farmhouse for an amazing multi-course truffle lunch in front of a roaring fire. With light and tasty wine (included in price) flowing freely, we enjoyed canapés of fresh-sliced truffle and cheese on baguette rounds and a refreshing salad of frisee with fresh truffles. And you haven’t lived until you’ve eaten the deceptively simple and decadent brouillade aux truffes (scrambled eggs with truffles). Dessert was - wait for it - truffle-laced creme brulée. Yup.
Word to the wise: Although the owners do speak English, we learned at the last minute that the tour we booked was going to be held in French. We were able to muddle through based on our own basic knowledge and also through the kind help of a fabulous couple we met there (from Basel! what are the chances?), who acted as our unofficial translators throughout the tour. So, just make sure to clarify when you book what language tour you’d be interested in.
Also, while you are in Provence and in a truffle-y kind of mood, make sure to visit the nearby Apt truffle market or Carpentras truffle market to test out some of your new-found knowledge.
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Truffes Ventoux
www.truffes-ventoux.com
La Quinsonne, 634 Chemin du Traversier, 84170 Monteux, France
Phone (+33) 04 90 66 82 21
