Bâlehoo

It is Halloween in Basel and I think I can safely say that I am the only person who scored a complete box of Halloween Pumpkin Peeps. My dad and his wife sent over the balls of sugary orange goodness a week or two ago and after immediately ripping it open for a quick glucose rush, the package has sat out “ripening” to the perfect peep-y crunch.

I have to admit, I usually don’t eat Peeps. They are a family tradition and arrive on various holidays throughout the year (most notably Easter of course). I normally prefer them as decorations rather than edible delights (plus I can source them to a certain 6 year old that eats all things sweet). That said, when you’re sitting in a land-locked nation with nary a candy corn* in sight on the eve of the US’s most fabulous celebration of sugar, a little orange peep sure hits the spot.

Meanwhile, halfway across the world, a little orange-haired “bat monster” is going to be out scaring up candy in PDX tonight and I’d give just about anything to be there… with my “peeps.”

*Actually you can order candy corn, peeps and other American-style candies and food items here in Switzerland from Taste of America.

Since I arrived in Basel last month, I have been somewhat “kitchen impaired.” First there were the several weeks at local hotels. And now, my pre-furnished (and perennially smokey) apartment only has a kitchenette  - and an UN-furnished one at that. Add to the that the busy work schedule, and as you might expect cooking has not been high on my list.

Enter the true wonder of Switzerland: bündnerfleisch.

This traditionally air-dried meat, which is often brined in white wine and herbs, is the Swiss equivalent to Beef Jerky. Yum! Low in calories and high in meaty flavor, the bündnerfleisch is also texturally superior, with little to none of the floppy fat that can ruin a girl’s prosciutto experience (not to mention her cardiovascular system).

Like many an Alpine farmer, the “bünd”, as I affectionately call it, has been a mainstay of my diet for the past six weeks.

You can find bündnerfleisch at loads of restaurants around Basel (it is staple apero fare) and it is also available in any supermarket. Each maker has their own special beefy brew, so make sure to try a few different kinds. My favorite brand, available at Globus on Marktplatz, is Val Grischa (available pre-packaged or sliced to order at the meat counter). It’s deep, almost liver-colored* meat is packed with flavor and its dry, jerky-like texture means you can grab and go without fear of mess or muss. (You can even munch on these little meat rectangles of joy bedside while watching the latest episode of Glee on iTunes. Just for example.)

So, to sum up.  Bündnerfleisch: it’s portable protein-packed meaty goodness. Swiss style. Eat some today! I know I will.

*My new camera flash blew out the color on this shot, so don’t be afraid when you see bündnerfleisch’s true deep dark glory.

My favorite girl was in town recently to help me set up shop at my apartment (aka Bâlehoo Headquarters) and I had to admit… I was a little nervous. It was her first trip to Basel. Would she love it or hate it? And perhaps most important for a skinny chick who regularly consumes her body weight (x2) in food… what would she eat?

You see, my girl is gluten free. And when it comes to gluten, Basel can be a bit of a bitch. What with the gipfeli, the Läckerli, the bretzels, and the brot, it sometimes seems like gluten is the Swiss national dish.

So our “bread-spectations” were low when we strolled into the Brasserie at the Hotel Trois Rois for a late dinner.  But we were in for one celiac of a surprise. Upon learning that gluten was verboten for my Fräulein, the charming waiter announced he’d be bringing some gluten-free bread toot sweet.

And what a loaf it was! Quite simply the best gluten-free bread she has ever had!  Not just in Basel. Not just recently. EVER.

As I watched my happy miss slather creamy butter on slice after slice of the warm, soft gluten-free goodness, I couldn’t help but pluck sullenly at my own slightly hard, gluten-laden but uninspired dinner rolls.

Gluten-free suddenly seemed like a really good idea.  Pass the bread basket please.

Ah! A rainy Sunday morning in Basel. The perfect time to have a fabulous cup of espresso from my brand new baby! As I mentioned before, I have a serious coffee habit. So, after a full month back in Basel, I finally braved the 30-minute lines at the N’espresso shop* on Saturday afternoon to buy this little beauty, and I am happy to report that the coffee tastes as good as the machine looks!

So with a proper cup of joe in hand, it is time to get back to work. Expect another newsletter soon!

*I had to go to the one near the Trois Rois, because the one that is just a FEW BLOCKS (hooray) from my apartment didn’t re-open until Monday.