Bâlehoo

My favorite girl was in town recently to help me set up shop at my apartment (aka Bâlehoo Headquarters) and I had to admit… I was a little nervous. It was her first trip to Basel. Would she love it or hate it? And perhaps most important for a skinny chick who regularly consumes her body weight (x2) in food… what would she eat?

You see, my girl is gluten free. And when it comes to gluten, Basel can be a bit of a bitch. What with the gipfeli, the Läckerli, the bretzels, and the brot, it sometimes seems like gluten is the Swiss national dish.

So our “bread-spectations” were low when we strolled into the Brasserie at the Hotel Trois Rois for a late dinner.  But we were in for one celiac of a surprise. Upon learning that gluten was verboten for my Fräulein, the charming waiter announced he’d be bringing some gluten-free bread toot sweet.

And what a loaf it was! Quite simply the best gluten-free bread she has ever had!  Not just in Basel. Not just recently. EVER.

As I watched my happy miss slather creamy butter on slice after slice of the warm, soft gluten-free goodness, I couldn’t help but pluck sullenly at my own slightly hard, gluten-laden but uninspired dinner rolls.

Gluten-free suddenly seemed like a really good idea.  Pass the bread basket please.

Ah! A rainy Sunday morning in Basel. The perfect time to have a fabulous cup of espresso from my brand new baby! As I mentioned before, I have a serious coffee habit. So, after a full month back in Basel, I finally braved the 30-minute lines at the N’espresso shop* on Saturday afternoon to buy this little beauty, and I am happy to report that the coffee tastes as good as the machine looks!

So with a proper cup of joe in hand, it is time to get back to work. Expect another newsletter soon!

*I had to go to the one near the Trois Rois, because the one that is just a FEW BLOCKS (hooray) from my apartment didn’t re-open until Monday.

OK. Enough with the hotel roundups. I’ve finally moved into my ugly little furnished apartment – or as I have quickly come to call it, my Smoking Cell (and yes sometimes I replace that “c” with an “h”).  Not only was there a miscommunication about the concept of “furnished” that has resulted in me needing to hunt down a TV and all kitchen items, there is an added surprise:  a steady stream of cigarette smoke is seeping in from the apartment downstairs.

Everything reeks: my towels, clothes and hair smell like smoke – hell, even my food is sadly reminiscent of my childhood favorites, the Smokie Links.  Plus my throat aches and my sinuses are throbbing.

So now I am on the hunt for a) duct tape b) air purifier and c) an entire kitchen’s worth of supplies.

Four months can’t go by fast enough.

Things have been busy since I arrived back in town, and finding a nice hotel was the last thing I wanted to add to my plate. After just one night (and one centipede on the rug) at the Hotel Basilisk, I cracked and did the only thing a slightly spoiled and entitled American girl can do in these situations. I asked the concierge.

Not at the Basilisk mind you. Instead I contacted the Hotel au Violon and, upon learning they had no availability, received several recommended alternatives - including the Hotel Steinenschanze. Hooray!

The Hotel Steinenschanze is a breath of fresh air.

Conveniently located on the Steinengraben just 5 minutes walking distance to Heuwaage, Barfusserplatz and the SBB, the hotel rooms have a vaguely IKEA aesthetic with cheery bold-striped curtains and matching free-floating schranks (wardrobes). The striped theme is echoed in more subtle fashion in the horizonal bleached wood on the walls.  The red-painted floors were a refreshing surprise and contrasted nicely with the crispy white bedding. The bathroom was small and plain, but the adjustable water pressure was so strong it could skin a cat (a huge plus in my book).

Although not large, the room I had used space efficiently, and, like the Hotel Wettstein, WiFi access was included in the room rate (150 CHF single, 190 CHF double).

The public spaces are this hotel’s true gem. An adorable restaurant area was the location for a hearty breakfast buffet of meats, cheeses, pastries, soft-boiled eggs, vegetables, sausages and more.  There is also a charming outdoor garden area with stylish tables, chairs and a zen-like reflecting pool with fountain.

Just before entering the restaurant area you’ll find another sitting area with streamlined lounge chairs. This the location of the “Welcome Drinks” – my favorite feature of this hotel. Each evening, guests are invited to enjoy a complimentary glass of wine, hot tea or a Nespresso coffee.   It is a “serve yourself” situation and I did so with gusto.

The hotel staff is friendly albeit a little reserved. However, you’ll definitely warm up to this hotel’s ethics – proceeds from the hotel are the primary support for a charitable organization called COMPAGNA that according to the hotel website “helps people in Basel in difficult life situations”, including support for the elderly and disabled and counseling for troubled women.
Hotel Garni Steinenschanze
Steinengraben 69
CH-4051 Basel
Telephone +41 61 272 53 53
Fax +41 61 272 45 73
www.steinenschanze.ch

Photo is from Hotel Steinenschanze website